[SCA-AE] About Sewing Leather

[Tracey Stoever]

Drew - Do you want me to submit that to Tournaments Illuminated or 
were you just posting it as a reply to the list? Thanks,

Teresa
TI Liaison 

--- In sca-aethelmearc at yahoogroups.com, Gwilym <scalongbow at ...> wrote:
>
> Replys are from Andrew Hazen, affectionately know as Drew.
> SCA member of BMDL.
> 
> (SHORT ANSWERS)
>  
> "Can you truly sew leather on a traditional machine
> without destroying either item?"
> short and sweet answer....
>  
> depending on the leather and machine....yes
>  
> "Isn't there a great method for sewing
> trim flat on round collars?"
>  
> short and sweet answer....
>  
> yes...baste stitch it on first
>  
> "What's a good way to cartridge-pleat a lot
> of fabric without going grey or mad first?"
>  
> Yes...can do it in a matter of minutes with three strings
> ====================================================
>  
> (LONG ANSWERS)
>  
> "Can you truly sew leather on a traditional machine
> without destroying either item?"
>  
> Truly and totally depends on the sewing machine and leather used. 
Common 
> since should tell you that you can not sew sole grade leather on a 
very 
> cheap model sewing machine, so I really will not go into what 
happens if 
> you do.
>  
> Leather that can be sewing on a household sewing machine:
>  
> Upholstery leather - 1oz to 3oz
> Vegetable tanned leather - 1oz to 3oz (both light and heavy 
household 
> sewing machines)
>  
> Any thinker will cause breakage in the plastic gears. If you have a 
> heavy weight sewing machine then you can get away with 5 to 6 oz 
> upholstery leather.
>  
> Now here is the key of sewing the leather one household sewing 
machines.
>  
> 1.       Measure...remeasure...get ready to cut the leather then 
> remeasure...lol
> 2.       Use rubber cement at seams to hold together that area 
before 
> sewing it, then use "tacky glue" after you sewn area for 
the "extra" hold.
> 3.       Use a 3 sided leather needle. If you don't then you can't 
sew 
> leather on a sewing machine and the regular needles will rip the 
leather up.
> 4.       Use a ceramic presser foot. If you don't the metal foot 
will 
> discolour the leather and pull it out of shape till it rips from 
the 
> friction.
> 5.       Sewing thread should be a "coat weight polestar thread" 
only.
> 
> 1.       Sew slow and steady. You only have one shot. Once a hole 
is 
> place in leather, its there. It will not go away...ever...even 
cussing 
> at it will not make it go way.
>  
>  
> "Isn't there a great method for sewing
> trim flat on round collars?"
>  
> I find the baste stitch while holding your tounge at different 
angles 
> works the best for me...
>  
>  
>  
> "What's a good way to cartridge-pleat a lot
> of fabric without going grey or mad first?"
>  
> Yes...can do it in a matter of minutes with three strings...see web 
site 
> or talk to Zianna...she taught me
>  
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/
>  
>  
> hope that helps
>  
> always
>  
> Drew
>  
> 
> "The upcoming Tournaments Illuminated Quest Article is SCA-
specific  Sewing Secrets with Guest Editor Celia Friedman | Maestra
>  Annalena di  Corsini, who has years of experience both as a member 
of the Order of  the Laurel (Costuming), and as a professional 
costumer. If you have  discovered (or secretly been made privy to) 
wonderful sewing tips and  techniques, here is your opportunity to 
share them with the Known  World. To get you thinking, here are a 
couple of questions staff and  friends sent in:     Can you truly sew 
leather on a traditional machine  without destroying either item?     
Isn't there a great method for sewing  trim flat on round collars? 
What's a good way to cartridge-pleat a lot  of fabric without going 
grey or mad first?    If you happen to have a stunning photograph 
(high resolution) of your  technique-in-progress, please let us 
know.  Send us an e-mail with your tip to tieditor at ... by  August 7, 
2008, and it may be included in the Fourth Quarter Issue of  
Tournaments Illuminated."    Teresa     
>  
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